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Most visitors to Japan will try sushi and ramen at some point during their stay. But Tokyo is home to another popular food that many visitors haven't heard of: monjayaki. Many people in Arakawa grew up eating this hearty dish. Today, the area has around 50 restaurants serving monjayaki.
Monjayaki consists of a watery batter and a variety of finely chopped ingredients, such as meat and vegetables, as well as mochi, cheese, and more. Everything is mixed up in a bowl before being poured onto a hot tabletop griddle. Diners themselves often cook their own meal.
Visit Hamasaku Monja Kaikan in Arakawa to sample some of their most popular dishes, including not just monjayaki but also okonomiyaki. This establishment has a fifty-year history, and is run by the charming Yaeko Yamaguchi, whose friendly service is sure to make diners feel welcome.
Located on the second floor of a building off a busy street, the restaurant has an at-home feeling. It's popular not just with locals, but with celebrities too, as you'll see from the autographs and photos hung on the walls. Hamasaku Monja Kaikan periodically holds events like rakugo storytelling performances in the space adjoining the restaurant. It's an ideal spot for a fun and intimate gathering.
At the center of each table is a large, rectangular griddle. These griddles are of course for cooking food, but also have the added benefit of making the tables super warm and cozy. Not to worry—various cold drinks (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) are available to keep diners from getting too hot.
For newbies, it's best to have an experienced monjayaki enthusiast show you the ropes. The staff are happy to help you cook your meal upon request, so don't be shy.
Monjayaki batter has a watery consistency, so it's common to cook a circular perimeter using solid ingredients before filling the center with liquid batter. However, the traditional style in Arakawa is to boldly pour in all the batter at once.
Monjayaki can be cooked to preference—some people enjoy a more liquid consistency, while others prefer the crunch of a monja that has been more thoroughly cooked. The warm griddle cooks the food slowly, so diners can try out a variety of textures. Diners scoop up and eat the monjayaki with provided spatulas. This might be a nice departure for those who are unused to chopsticks.
A variety of sauces and flavorings are available on each tabletop. Try the shaved fish flakes (katsuobushi) and aonori seaweed. The warm griddle makes these seasonings extra fragrant.
Other tasty items include okonomiyaki, and anko-maki for dessert. This simple and sweet treat is the perfect ending to a hearty meal.
Hamasaku Monja Kaikan is an ideal slow dining experience that lets visitors dine like real locals. It's a can't-miss Arakawa destination.
Arakawa area
2F 6-4-11 Arakawa, Arakawa City, Tokyo
03-3819-4855
Weekdays: 16:00-22:00
Weekends and holidays: 11:30-22:00
Thursdays
60 minutes
2,500 yen or more
Machiya Station | 1 min on foot | Chiyoda Line
Updated: February 29, 2024